At the end of a recent seafood dinner in Washington, my dining companions and I were presented with a splendid arrangement of Greek desserts. The assortment was familiar: baklava —caramelized phyllo pastry, filled with chopped nuts, and sweetened with syrup or honey, ekmek kataifi –crispy, golden shredded phyllo with creamy custard, soaked in lemon scented syrup, yaourti —authentic Greek yogurt served with thyme honey and walnuts, galaktoboureko —Greek custard set in a crispy, caramelized phyllo pastry shell, drizzled with hot sugar syrup, and portokalopita –orange cake topped with a swirl of whipped cream and a strip of candied orange.
Fortunately, the desserts were served in sampling portions, and with each bite I was reminded of enjoying similar treats in sunny cafes and bright, joyous tavernas in Athens, Crete, Mykonos, Santorini and Patmos. Crispy caramelized phyllo, creamy custard, honey, syrup, orange blossom water, vanilla and assorted nuts were irresistible, and I indulged fully. But my favorite dessert that evening was Portokalopita – Greek Orange Cake. It was tender yet moist and dense with an intoxicating orange flavor unlike any orange cake I ever tasted. One tiny piece was not enough. I knew I had to learn how to make it at home.
Portokalopita (literally means orange pastry) is a traditional Greek cake made with phyllo soaked in cold syrup infused with orange flavors. The origin of portokalopita is unclear but Greeks believe its roots can be traced to the Byzantine era when oranges were introduced to Greece and vast orange groves were planted on the Lefka Ori mountains on the island of Crete. A popular legend is that frugal Greek women, with an abundant orange harvest each year, created portokalopita to use dried phyllo scraps leftover from making spanakopita (spinach pie) and tiropita (cheese pie).
What makes portokalopita memorable?
Phyllo (fillo): Greek cooks use phyllo as a wrapper for sweet and savory pastries. When phyllo is used to hold things together, special care is needed so it remains pliable, not dried out or torn. This recipe, however, uses phyllo differently and the same care is not required. Here, phyllo is purposely dried and shredded, and when mixed with other ingredients, replaces flour and provides the cake’s structure.
Oranges: Portokalopita’s traditional citrus intensity begins with five oranges. Three oranges are zested and juiced. Two oranges are boiled whole to remove the bitterness in the white pith and once the seeds are removed, processed into a smooth thick jam. Additionally, orange blossom water, a clear, aromatic distillate of flowers of the bitter orange tree, provides a distinct citrus and floral note, adding a unique dimension to the cake.
Syrup: Portakalopita ’s characteristic juiciness and sweetness stem from a soaking syrup of sugar, water, fresh orange juice, a cinnamon stick, and orange blossom water. This recipe employs a Greek dessert technique used in other siropiasto or syrup-soaked cakes such as baklava, ekmek kataifi, and galaktoboureko.
Otherwise, portokalopita’s custardy texture is created from simple, readily available pantry ingredients. Typical custard ingredients – dairy (yogurt), eggs, sugar and vanilla—comprise the liquid in the cake but blend thoroughly with the dried phyllo flakes without creating a distinct custard layer.
A series of simple steps are involved in making portokalopita, some of which can be prepared in advance. Drying the phyllo, zesting, juicing, boiling oranges and cooking the soaking syrup can be done over several days. When ready to bake, the custard is quickly assembled in a food processor or blender and then mixed with the dried phyllo to form the batter. It is best to make this orange cake the day before you plan to serve it so it can be refrigerated overnight for the syrup to disburse throughout the cake, concentrating flavors fully.
Portokalopita is a sweet, syrupy cake, but its sweetness can be reduced by cutting the sugar in the cake batter in half or using less soaking syrup. (Note, however, that sugar in the soaking syrup should not be reduced, as it will make it watery.)
Usually served cold, portokalopita is in a class by itself among the other syrup-soaked Greek desserts. Its deep citrus flavor is mouthwatering. It has a light but firm, custardy texture, an intense orange scent, and a complex flavor of oranges and cinnamon!
It tastes great all on its own with a cup of espresso or tea. Occasionally, I serve it with a spoon of barely sweetened, whipped Greek yogurt or labneh. The tartness of the yogurt or labneh modulates the cake’s inherent sweetness. If a fancier presentation is needed, then the cake can be garnished with strips of orange peel or a thinly sliced orange, non-toxic flowers or purchased or homemade candied orange slices.
Portokalopita satisfies even the most avid sweet tooth. Still, other recipes suggest a scoop of vanilla ice cream, sweetened whipped cream, or a drizzle of chocolate syrup if additional sweetness is desired.
Dessert leftovers are rarely an issue in our house, but refrigerate any portokalopita for no more than five days. This cake should not be frozen, as the phyllo sheets become soggy and lose their texture and flavor.
Portokapolita – Greek Orange Cake, an adaptation from Georgina Hayden’s YouTube video and other Greek recipes
For the syrup
2 cups granulated sugar
2 cups liquid –a combination of the juice of 3 oranges (zest before juicing and reserve) and water
1 cinnamon stick
¼ teaspoon orange blossom water*
For the cake
One package (1 pound – 454 g) phyllo dough, thawed overnight in the refrigerator
2 organic oranges, small to medium size
1 cup (250 g) sunflower oil or other neutral-flavored vegetable oil
Zest of three oranges
1 cup (250 g) sugar, granulated
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 cup (250 g) plain 2% fat Greek yogurt**
½ cup (118 ml) milk (optional – see note to Greek yogurt)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
pinch of salt
For garnish (optional)
1-2 oranges sliced to decorate
OR See Candied orange slices recipe below
Preparing syrup: In a medium pot, bring sugar, orange juice, water, cinnamon stick, and orange blossom water to a boil. Simmer for 5-10 minutes until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup has thickened. Cool to room temperature before using.
Soaking syrup ingredients
Preparing phyllo: Thaw a package of purchased phyllo sheets in the refrigerator overnight.
Preheat oven to 200ºF (93ºC).
Remove thawed phyllo from the package, unfold the thin sheets, and one by one, scrunch them up into pleats from the short side.
Unpackaged phyllo
Pleated phyllo
Place each scrunched sheet lined up with the short edge of a baking pan until all phyllo is scrunched and the baking pan is loosely filled, using another baking pan if necessary. Bake in the middle and bottom racks of your oven for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, turn over each phyllo sheet and rotate the baking pans. After another 15 minutes, turn the oven off, leaving the phyllo in the oven and keeping the door open for further drying. (Baking time may need to be increased depending on how tightly the phyllo is packed. If so, loosen the sheets by hand for greater exposure to heat.). When completely dry, crumble phyllo into tiny pieces (½ inch-1.27 cm or smaller) and set aside.
Phyllo — dried and crumbled
Preparing oranges: Zest three oranges and set zest aside. Then juice the same oranges and set aside.
Place two organic oranges in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to medium. Simmer the oranges for 10 minutes and drain. Put the oranges back in the pot, cover with cold water, and boil again for 10 minutes. Drain, then repeat once more. (Boil the oranges three times.)
Boiling organic oranges
Rinse oranges in cold water and slice into ½ in (1 cm) slices on a rimmed plate to conserve juices. Remove seeds, dice peel and pulp, accumulated juice, and place in a food processor or blender.
Boiled oranges — sliced and chopped
Blend until a jam-like consistency is reached. Set aside in a food processor or blender bowl.
Boiled orange jam
Assembling and baking cake: Preheat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC) and lightly grease or coat with cooking spray a 9-inch x 13-inch (23 cm x 33 cm) pan or 2 – 9-inch (23 cm) diameter cake pans.
Add sunflower oil, zest and sugar to a food processor/blender bowl with orange pulp and process into a smooth paste. Then add the eggs, yogurt, milk if needed, vanilla extract, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and process until thoroughly combined. Transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl.
Using a rubber spatula, carefully whisk a handful of phyllo flakes at a time, folding over gently to be sure phyllo pieces do not clump but are individually coated in the custard mixture. Continue adding and mixing in additional handfuls of phyllo until all are incorporated in the custard and a cake batter is formed.
Ready to bake
Then pour the cake batter into the prepared pan(s) and bake on the middle oven rack until golden and set, about 50-60 minutes for a 9-inch x 13-inch (23 cm x 33 cm) pan and 30-35 minutes for two 9-inch (23 cm) pans or until a toothpick tester comes out clean. Check cake and rotate pan at mid-point.
Once done, remove the cake from the oven and immediately pierce it with a fork all over its surface while it is hot. Slowly pour a ladle of cold syrup, and once the syrup is absorbed, continue adding more ladles of syrup when absorbed. Repeat until all the syrup is added.
Soaking in syrup
Then, keep the cake at room temperature until the syrup is absorbed before refrigerating overnight before serving.
This Greek orange cake should be removed from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving. Garnish as desired.
Serves 20, 2-inch x 2-inch (5 cm x 5 cm) pieces
Portokalopita with Greek yogurt and candied orange
*Orange blossom water is available online, Whole Foods, spice shops and other groceries.
** Greek yogurt varies in thickness depending on the brand and fat content. If yogurt is thick and unpourable, add up to ½ cups (118 ml) milk to loosen it to a soft mayonnaise consistency.
Candied orange slices
1 navel orange
Large bowl of ice water
2 cups granulated sugar
2 cups water
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
Slice orange into thin rounds, no more than ⅛-inch thick, with a mandolin or sharp knife. Discard seeds and end cuts.
Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil and add orange slices. Boil for 1 minute, then place ice water in a bowl until cooled. Drain.
In a large skillet over medium heat, bring 2 cups sugar, 2 cups water, and 2 tablespoons of orange juice to a boil, and heat until sugar dissolves (stir occasionally). Turn heat to medium-low and place orange slices in the sugar water in a single layer. Simmer (do not boil) the orange slices 45-60 minutes or until rinds are slightly translucent, turning every 15 minutes.
Place orange slices on a cooling rack and cool completely (1 hour or overnight).
Use immediately or keep orange slices refrigerated and layered with parchment in an airtight container until ready to use. Orange slices can be kept for up to 1 month and used as a garnish for many desserts. Reserve orange syrup in the refrigerator for feeding cake or another use.
Makes 8-10 slices, depending on the size of the orange and the thickness of the slices.
Photo credits: All photos: Slava Johnson
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