I first encountered this Korean Carrot Salad (in Ukrainian морква по-корейськи, корейський салат з моркви; also called morkovcha in transliteration from Russian) when I started to work in Ukraine over two decades ago. In those days, most fresh vegetables vanished from Ukraine’s markets by the end of October and those that remained were imported and expensive. Instead, pickles and storable root crops (beets, carrots, cabbage, potatoes, onions) were the primary vitamin source.
As I searched Kyiv markets for something fresh to eat, I discovered numerous pickle kiosks selling assorted colorful salads: different marinated eggplant preparations, various beet-vegetable combinations and carrot-cabbage mixtures as well as this Korean Carrot Salad. The vegetables of each salad were uniformly cut on mandolines, slicers and julienne graters, which were also sold. Each woman vendor, eager to entice me to buy her salads, would wrap up a few tablespoons of the mild and the hot versions in brown paper cones. Some samples were bland and tasteless. Others were scorchingly hot, but for me, the spiciness was a welcome departure from Ukraine’s usual salt-pepper-garlic flavored fare.
Various Korean pickled vegetables
I found the name curious, however. There aren’t many Koreans in Ukraine and neither the mild nor hot versions of the salad tasted particularly Korean, but surprisingly it was a Ukrainian favorite. Over time, I learned how this tasty salad gained prominence in Ukraine and other former Soviet republics.
The roots of this Korean Carrot Salad lie in poverty, migration, colonialism and oppression. Famine in North Korea in the 1860s forced thousands of Koreans (called Koryo-saram) to migrate to the Russian Empire’s Far East for survival. The next wave of Korean migration escaped Japanese colonial repression in the early 1900s. Another smaller Korean migration occurred after the 1917 Bolshevik Revolution when poor but idealistic Koreans seeking a better life, came to build the workers’ paradise promised by the Communist Party. In fact, a Ukrainian attorney colleague was a granddaughter of such idealistic Korean immigrants.
By the mid-1930s, over 200,000 Koreans of several generations were living on the territory of the Soviet Union, scattered throughout Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Central Asian area of Russia. In 1937, Joseph Stalin, in response to tensions between the USSR and Japan, questioned the loyalty of the Koryo-saram and ordered the forced relocation of over 170,000 Soviet Koreans to remote, barren areas of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan during which over 40,000 died. Isolated from steady food supplies, survivors endured a hardscrabble life of hunger and poverty.
Traditional Korean cooking ingredients were unavailable in Central Asia, so Koryo-saram cooks incorporated local crops and spices, creating a new diaspora cuisine, and this Korean Carrot Salad is an example of such adaptation. Some culinary historians think that carrots were a substitute for Peking (Napa) cabbage, commonly used in kimchi but unavailable in Central Asia. But this salad does not resemble any salad eaten in Korea, and probably was an unlikely substitute for kimchi in which cabbage is cut, not finely shredded, salted and fermented. Only hot peppers used in traditional Korean cooking were readily available and were combined with spices used in Central Asian cuisines, creating a uniquely Koryo-saram dish.
Salad spices
Eventually, Koryo-saram relocation to Central Asia ended. In the 1960s, following Soviet demographic practice of mixing ethnic populations so the Russian language would be the country’s lingua franca, Koryo-saram were assigned to study and work throughout the USSR and their cuisine went with them. Thus, this Korean Carrot Salad became ubiquitous, spreading by word-of-mouth in Ukraine and other Soviet republics. Throughout the former USSR, public markets, grocery stores and delis now carry prepared salads. Spice packets also are sold in grocery stores for those who assemble this salad at home.
Pickled vegetables at public market
One important question remains unanswered: how did this minority immigrant-introduced salad achieve widespread acceptance in Ukraine and other former republics of the USSR? There are probably several factors responsible for its institutionalization: First, there still is a dearth of fresh vegetables throughout the region during the long winter season, and new recipes for root vegetables are quickly accepted. Second, there is a long tradition of pickling in the region; pickled vegetables are especially popular during winter, and this salad was easily incorporated into the existing pickle genre. Third, since Soviet times, multiculturalism in Ukraine and other former republics has played a role in developing each country’s national cuisine as various ethnic minorities left certain culinary evidence of their past or current presence and a general acceptance by the larger population of new recipes and dishes. Finally, the spicey character of this Korean Carrot Salad was sufficiently adaptable to the Ukrainian palate and Ukrainian cooks found substitutes for certain spices to manipulate the heat.
This salad is quick and easy to make. Fresh, crisp carrots, at least 2 inches (5.08 cm) in diameter, and a special but easily obtained matchstick grater* are essential. Neither a regular box grater nor a food processor feeder effectively produce long carrot strands.
This salad is spicy. The suggested spices can be adapted to taste and other spices as well as Korean spices such as gochujang can be added. Curry powder, black pepper, smoked paprika and ground coriander seeds add a specific piquancy, but cayenne makes this salad spicy and can easily be adjusted to accommodate heat tolerance.
Briefly sautéing the spices in hot oil intensifies their fragrance, and pouring the hot oil-spice mixture on carrots softens them. The resulting Korean Carrot Salad has an unforgettable, savory flavor with subtle Asian overtones.
This Korean Carrot Salad is often served as part of a zakuska (appetizer) spread accompanying cocktails or vodka and is a great side dish to grilled beef, chicken, beef and salmon. It is particularly tasty with grilled pork shashlik.
Korean Carrot Salad
For salad:
3pounds (1.4 kg) carrots, cut into matchsticks on special grater*
1-2 teaspoons kosher salt, use less if using table salt
2 teaspoons sugar
1 ½ teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 ounces (100 ml) neutral vegetable oil with high burn point such as corn, sunflower or peanut
1 ½ teaspoons smoked paprika
½ – 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 yellow onion, diced
3-4 tablespoons rice vinegar or substitute with white vinegar
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely grated
For garnish:
fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped (optional)
1 teaspoon sesame seeds, toasted (optional) OR
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil (optional
Preparing carrots: Start by peeling and julienning carrots into long matchsticks using a grater.
Grating carrots
(Caution: Sliding each carrot along the grater with the palm of the hand is best method for grating into long strands. A protective glove** should be worn to grate as much of each carrot as possible without injury, saving carrot remainders for other uses.) Stir in salt and sugar and set aside for 15 minutes until carrots secrete juice. Drain juice and pat carrots dry.
Grating safely
Assembling salad: In a clean dry skillet, toast the coriander seeds and black peppercorns until fragrant, watching carefully so they don’t burn. Finely grind toasted spices in a spice mill or crush in a mortar and pestle. Set aside to cool.
Toasting black pepper and coriander
Return the skillet to medium heat. Add oil and onions. Sauté until the onions start to color.
Flavoring oil with onions
With a slotted spoon, remove the onions from the oil and save for another use. Add the toasted and remaining spices into the oil and stir until they are fragrant, about 1 minute, avoiding burning.
Blooming spices
Immediately pour the hot oil and spice mixture over the carrots and toss vigorously to combine.
Adding hot oil-spice mixture
Stir in vinegar and garlic. Taste and adjust seasoning. Cool to room temperature.
Adding garlic and vinegar
Transfer salad into a glass container with a tight lid and marinate for at least 6 hours or overnight in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving and garnish with cilantro and sesame seeds or drizzle sesame oil.
The salad will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Serves 10
** Cut resistant gloves are available on https://www.amazon.com/JPP-Protection-Ambidextrous-3D-Comfort-Lightweight/dp/B0BM318CYS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1JT16RRGO1S5&keywords=protective%2Bshield%2Bfor%2Bmandolines&qid=1699446418&sprefix=protective%2Bshield%2Bfor%2Bmandolines%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Photo credits:
Various Korean pickled vegetables – ID24266938 © Plus69–Dreamstime.com
Plates and tray with pickled vegetables at market – ID265444890 © Sviatlana Barchan –Dreamstime.com
All other photos: Slava Johnson
One year ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/no-bake-mocha-almond-waffle-torte-pischinger-andruty-wafer/
Two years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/fideua-spanish-noodles-seafood/.
Three years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/pissaladiere-french-onion-anchovy-olive-tart/
Four years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/quinoa-salad-roasted-butternut-squash-pomegranate-almonds/
Five years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/2506-2/
Six years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/turkey-ham-pork-sausage-pie-2/
Seven years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/chocolate-pecan-mille-crepes-torte/
Eight years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/solies-norwegian-christmas-cookies/
Nine years ago: https://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/pumpkin-trio-2/