Cornish Hens Tabaka are a traditional dish indigenous to the Republic of Georgia, a country of nine million inhabitants in the Caucasus Mountains. Its Georgian name originates from “tapha,” the cast iron pan with a weighted, screw-tightened lid used to prepare this succulent dish. It is sometimes also called Tabaka, Tapaka, Chicken Tabaka, Chicken Tabak, Chicken Tapaka, Poussin Tabaka or Flattened Chicken.
From its alternative names, one may wonder why I used Cornish hens rather than a chicken. The answer is that this recipe requires small chickens weighing less than two pounds, like those available in Georgia. American chickens are too large and cook unevenly in this recipe. Only Cornish hens come close to the required size, and produce the right balance of crispiness and juiciness.
Cornish hens (also sold under the brand name Rock Cornish Game Hens) are hard to find in Chicago markets. It is unclear why these hens lost their appeal, but few are currently available in grocery stores or appear on restaurant menus; if available, the selection is sparse and always frozen.
Cornish hens are not game birds nor wild fowl of some sort; there is nothing wild about them. These hens are merely small broiler chickens, a hybrid of common strains of commercially raised meat chickens which develop large breasts and reach 2 pounds ready-to-cook weight within 28 to 30 days. Some cooks may consider these hens, which can be male or female, as too small and too much bother to cook. They are, however, similar in size to the poussin, a European small chicken, which is used in Georgia for tabaka preparations.
These Cornish Hens Tabaka are based on an ancient Georgian cooking method. Although fried chicken is prepared globally, this Georgian method for frying a small hen under a weight creates an especially juicy bird.
Georgian tabaka dishes are sometimes mistakenly identified as Russian, probably because tabaka preparations were ubiquitous throughout the 15 republics of the former Soviet Union. For over 74 years, Soviet leaders experimented with social engineering to attenuate ethnic differences between republics by resettling populations, establishing Russian the lingua franca to the decline of native tongues and controlling much decision-making in Moscow. They also controlled the availability of ingredients by standardizing food distribution nationwide and even assembled an official state cookbook for use by public institutions and home cooks.
Despite the political objective of state-wide uniformity, Soviet leaders eventually recognized the emotional attachment to ethnic foods, and promoted several dishes from each republic. Thus, virtually all restaurants and cafeterias in every republic, all of which were run by the state, would regularly feature Ukrainian borshch and black bread, Chicken Kyiv (Kiev), Chicken Tabaka and shashlyk (shishkebab) and pelmeni on their menus. As a result, the Georgian origin of Tabaka dishes was often forgotten and attributed to local cuisine.
There are many variations of tabaka among Georgian cooks. While all cooks agree that small hens are to be spatchcocked and flattened, cooks differ on how this flattening should be done: whether the hen’s backbone should be removed or the hen cut along the breastbone before flattening. I find that cutting out the backbone allows for easier flattening, creating an even thickness for frying and a more compact, esthetic appearance.
There also is a difference of opinion about seasoning: Some Georgian cooks merely salt and pepper the flattened hens before frying them in a large amount of butter. London chef Olha Hercules, in her cookbook Kaukasis: A Culinary Journey through Georgia, Azerbaijan & Beyond, follows this minimalist approach, and seasons her version of Poussin Tabaka only with salt and pepper. Darra Goldstein in The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia, a winner of the Julia Child Cookbook Award, relies on flavoring her Flattened Chicken with salt, garlic, a pinch of cayenne and 2 tablespoons of butter. Other cooks rub a chef’s-choice of spice combinations of ground coriander, turmeric, cumin, marjoram, marigold, paprika, chili peppers and garlic on the hens and then marinate overnight before frying in a mixture of oil and butter. Still other recipes urge marinating the hens in a chopped herb, garlic and oil mixture for 2 hours or overnight. In some Georgia regions, tabaka is smothered in sour cream after frying. Adaptability seems to be a hallmark of each tabaka preparation.
Although Cornish Hens Tabaka seasoned simply with salt and pepper are delicious, the most succulent version I tasted was dry-rubbed with khmeli-suneli, a traditional Georgian spice mixture consisting of coriander, garlic, fennel, mint, dill, savory, fenugreek and marigold. Khmeli-suneli which, according to Darra Goldstein, “is to Georgian cuisine what curry is to Indian,” imparts this dish with the true fresh, floral and tart fragrance of Georgia. Khmeli-suneli can be purchased online,* and can also be made at home. A recipe for homemade khmeli-suneli is provided at the end of this post.
Once crispy and golden, Cornish Hens Tabaka usually are served piping hot with tkemali, a sour plum sauce that is legendary in Georgia, a legacy of Persian culinary influence where meat-fruit combinations are common. Olia Hercules accompanies her Poussin Tabaka recipe with a blackberry sauce. However, cooks who prefer a savory presentation make niortskali, a garlic sauce based on frying pan drippings.
I serve Cornish Hens Tabaka with both sauces for diners to choose. Tkemali can be purchased or prepared a few days ahead. Niortskali is prepared in the same frying pan while the hens are resting after cooking. Recipes for both sauces are below.
Potatoes, boiled or mashed, are often a side dish to Cornish Hens Tabaka, but I prefer a lightly dressed salad of mixed greens and herbs such as cilantro, dill, tarragon, parsley, basil, summer savory and arugula traditionally served with Georgian meals and some crusty bread. The herbs can be served separately as in Georgia or mixed with salad greens. Cornish Hens Tabaka are also delicious with creamy polenta.
Cornish Hens Tabaka
2 Cornish game hens, defrosted
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1½ tablespoons khmeli-suneli*
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
3 tbsp clarified butter/ghee**
In a small bowl, make the rub by combining salt, pepper, khmeli-suneli and garlic.
Wash and dry hens thoroughly. Place each hen breast-side down on cutting board and with kitchen shears or a sharp knife, remove the backbone. Turn the hen over and flatten with your hand. Then cover with plastic wrap and using the flat side of a mallet, pound until uniformly flat. For a more compact hen, the legs can be anchored by cutting small incisions in the loose thigh skin and threading the legs through.
Rub both sides of each hen thoroughly with the spice-garlic mixture; place in a freezer bag and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or preferably overnight.
One hour prior to cooking time, remove hens from refrigerator and pat dry with paper towels. Allow hens to reach room temperature.
Melt clarified butter/ghee in a large cast iron frying pan over a high heat capable of fitting both hens. (If frying pan can’t accommodate both hens, proceed with one hen at a time.) As butter begins to sputter, nestle hens skin-side up in frying pan. Cover hens with a cartouche, then place a smaller heavy frying pan with a heavy weight (a cast iron lid, a brick or pot filled with water or a large can of juice), pressing hens down firmly onto the pan’s surface for maximum contact. Sear hens for 5-7 minutes.
Then turn hens over skin-side down. Again, cover hens with a cartouche and a heavy weight as above, pressing hens down firmly onto the pan’s surface for maximum contact. Reduce heat to low and continue frying hens for another 20-25 minutes, checking periodically for doneness. The hens are done when golden brown in color and thigh meat registers 165°F (74 °C) on an instant-read thermometer.
When frying both hens at one time, remove hens when done to a cutting board and cover with foil for 15 minutes. If frying one hen at a time, place done hen on a rimmed baking sheet in an oven pre-heated to 300°F (149°C), cover with foil and proceed to fry remaining hen. Once both hens are fried, place on cutting board, cover with foil and prepare the garlic sauce.
Cut each hen in half and serve with both tkemali and garlic sauce on the side.
Serves 2- 4 If hens are very small, then a serving should be a whole hen per person without side dishes or a half a hen per person with potatoes or polenta and vegetables.
Niortskali (garlic sauce)
This sauce is traditionally made with cilantro, but other herbs may be substituted.
3 tablespoons butter
6 large cloves garlic, minced
1½ cups chicken stock
1½ teaspoons sweet paprika
3 tablespoons cilantro (or mixed herbs parsley, cilantro, dill, etc.)
Salt to taste
Once hens are removed from frying pan, increase heat to medium/high. When pan is hot, add butter, then minced garlic and cook until soft, 4–6 minutes watching carefully so as not to burn. Add stock and salt; bring to a simmer. Cook until sauce is slightly reduced, about 15 minutes. Remove sauce from heat and stir in paprika and cilantro (or other herbs). Serve hot with the Cornish hens.
Makes 1¼ cup
Tkemali, (sour plum sauce) adapted from Darra Goldstein, The Georgian Feast
The green sour plums used for this sauce in Georgia are not available in North America. Santa Rosa Plums have similar tartness to Georgian plums and are the most suitable alternative. But plums vary in sugar content. This sauce is supposed to be more tart than sweet. If the sauce is too sweet, add a few drops of lemon juice to increase tartness. If too tart, a teaspoon of muscovado sugar will correct the imbalance.
1½ pounds Santa Rosa plums (not too ripe)
¼ cup water
¾ teaspoon whole coriander seed
1 teaspoon fennel seed
2 large cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoons fresh mint, finely minced
½ cup cilantro leaves and stems, finely minced
Cut plums in half and remove pits. Place in a saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Simmer, covered, for 15 minutes until soft.
In a mortar with a pestle or clean coffee grinder, pound or grind together coriander, fennel, garlic, cayenne and salt to make a smooth paste.
When plums are soft, put them through a food mill and return to a clean pan. Bring to a boil and cook over medium heat, stirring for 3 minutes. Stir in ground spices and continue cooking until mixture thickens slightly, another 5 minutes or so. Stir in mint and cilantro and remove pan from heat. Pour in a clean mason jar while still hot. Seal with lid for longer storage or refrigerate once cooled. Serve at room temperature.
Makes 1 pint
Tkemali can be purchased online at https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_2_7?url=search-alias%3Dgrocery&field-keywords=tkemali&sprefix=tkemali%2Caps%2C2713&crid=2FOLN15Z5CR8S
Khmeli-suneli, adapted from Darra Goldstein, The Georgian Feast
2 teaspoons ground coriander seeds
2 teaspoons dried basil
2 teaspoons dried dill
2 teaspoons dried summer savory
1 teaspoons dried parsley
1 teaspoon dried mint
1 teaspoons dried fenugreek leaves
1 teaspoons ground marigold (also called calendula)
1 bay leaf, crushed
Pound ingredients together in a mortar with a pestle or whirl in a coffee mill until fine. Store airtight. Use within 3 months.
*Khmeli-suneli can be bought online at World Spice Merchants — https://www.worldspice.com/blends/khmeli-suneli .**
**Clarified butter, or ghee as it is called in Indian cooking, has the proteins (casein and whey) and milk solids (lactose) removed, which results in a fat with a high smoke point (around 400°F (200 °C) than regular butter which means that it does not burn when frying. Because of its ability to withstand high heat, clarified butter is used for sautés, fries, and similar cooking methods.
Ghee/clarified butter can be purchased in international or Indian grocery stores or can easily be made following the instruction in https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/clarified-butter.
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