Kitchen Epiphanies

KITCHEN epiphanies

Exploring diverse foodways...

Ukraine

Pumpkin Noodle Babka or Kugel

This Pumpkin Noodle Babka is my recreation of a fall dish Babunia, my Ukrainian maternal grandmother Julianna Bulawka, improvised for Didunio, my grandfather Vasyl Bulawka.  It unites sweet cheese, sour cream custard with egg noodles and pumpkin, Ukraine’s favorite fall ingredient, in a noodle bake (she called harbuzova babka* or kugel (гарбузова бабка or куґель) …

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Kapusnyak – Ukrainian Sauerkraut soup

Ukrainians love soup — hot, cold, meat or vegetable-based.  It’s served daily in homes and restaurants regardless of season.  Borshch, the quintessential Ukrainian soup, is a culinary staple recognized worldwide and inscribed on UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2022.  While borshch is consumed year-round, cooler weather restores the taste for …

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Poured-Crust Cabbage Pie — and How Ukrainians Celebrate Midsummer

I first encountered this Poured-Crust Cabbage Pie at a picnic on the eve of Ivana Kupala, Ukraine’s midsummer celebration. Its thin crust enveloped a savory mixture of shredded young cabbage, other vegetables and spices.  It was perfect picnic food:  fresh, flavorful, easy to eat out of hand on a magical midsummer evening, leaving a lasting …

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Rhubarb Tart with Crème Anglaise

When I was a kid, rhubarb dishes appeared on our family menu each May, confirming unequivocally that spring had finally arrived. Seeing a basket of bright red rhubarb at the local market enticed me to try this Rhubarb Tart with Crème Anglaise recipe that I’ve saved just for this occasion. Rhubarb is a perennial plant …

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Carrot Oladky – Tender Carrot Pancakes from Ukraine

These Carrot Oladky (morkvyani oladky – морквяні оладки in Ukrainian) are one of many dairy-based dishes eaten during Masnytsia or Syrny Tyzhden (translated as Butter Week or Cheese Week). Masnytsia is Ukrainian carnivale which takes place a week before the start of Lent, which often occurs at the end of February or in the first …

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Pistachio Napoleon Torte – a Twist on a Ukrainian Classic

This Pistachio Napoleon Torte is my twist on the traditional Ukrainian Napoleon. In my childhood, Napoleon Torte was the epitome of a fancy dessert made only for special occasions by my aunt Titka Maria or Mama. Years later, when I began working in Ukraine, I learned this torte was adored by other Ukrainians and prepared …

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Winter Beet and Dried Plum Salad with Walnut Dressing

My daughter Sophia teases me whenever I choose a beet dish from a restaurant menu, saying, “So Ukrainian of you!”.  But I love the sweetness and earthiness of beets, which have been a part of my diet in soups, main dishes, and salads since childhood.  This Winter Beet and Dried Plum Salad with Walnut Dressing …

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Medovi Pryanyky – Ukrainian Honey Spice Cookies

These Medovi Pryanyky–honey spice cookies — have been an integral part of Ukrainian holiday traditions for centuries.  Also called medianyky, medivnychky and medovyky, these names stem from the Ukrainian word for honey, med, meaning “made from honey” and announce that the dough contains honey, which makes sweet, long-lasting, easy-to-shape cookies. The word pryanyky (plural, pryanyk …

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Korean Carrot Salad

I first encountered this Korean Carrot Salad (in Ukrainian морква по-корейськи, корейський салат з моркви; also called morkovcha in transliteration from Russian) when I started to work in Ukraine over two decades ago.  In those days, most fresh vegetables vanished from Ukraine’s markets by the end of October and those that remained were imported and …

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Apple Babka or Zapikanka or Sharlotka? – Ukrainian Apple Cake

This post presents a delectable apple and bread dessert known by various names. I call it Apple Babka, but similar recipes also are called Apple Zapikanka (pudding) or Apple Sharlotka (charlotte).  The names often are confused because the recipes include similar ingredients: apples, bread or flour, butter, sugar and some also add eggs and/or milk. …

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