Kitchen Epiphanies

KITCHEN epiphanies

Exploring diverse foodways...

Pumpkin Noodle Babka or Kugel

This Pumpkin Noodle Babka is my recreation of a fall dish Babunia, my Ukrainian maternal grandmother Julianna Bulawka, improvised for Didunio, my grandfather Vasyl Bulawka.  It unites sweet cheese, sour cream custard with egg noodles and pumpkin, Ukraine’s favorite fall ingredient, in a noodle bake (she called harbuzova babka* or kugel (гарбузова бабка or куґель) …

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Kapusnyak – Ukrainian Sauerkraut soup

Ukrainians love soup — hot, cold, meat or vegetable-based.  It’s served daily in homes and restaurants regardless of season.  Borshch, the quintessential Ukrainian soup, is a culinary staple recognized worldwide and inscribed on UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2022.  While borshch is consumed year-round, cooler weather restores the taste for …

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Portokalopita – Greek Orange Cake

At the end of a recent seafood dinner in Washington, my dining companions and I were presented with a splendid arrangement of Greek desserts.  The assortment was familiar:  baklava —caramelized phyllo pastry, filled with chopped nuts, and sweetened with syrup or honey, ekmek kataifi –crispy, golden shredded phyllo with creamy custard, soaked in lemon scented …

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Ras el Hanout Cauliflower Wedges with Mashed Chickpeas

This Ras el Hanout Cauliflower Wedges with Mashed Chickpeas recipe is this year’s addition to my plant-forward repertoire. It illustrates how seasoning with an unusual spice blend can amplify the flavor of a common vegetable. When I was growing up in Maryland, Mama and other family cooks cooked vegetables they knew. Thus, my vegetable diet …

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Poured-Crust Cabbage Pie — and How Ukrainians Celebrate Midsummer

I first encountered this Poured-Crust Cabbage Pie at a picnic on the eve of Ivana Kupala, Ukraine’s midsummer celebration. Its thin crust enveloped a savory mixture of shredded young cabbage, other vegetables and spices.  It was perfect picnic food:  fresh, flavorful, easy to eat out of hand on a magical midsummer evening, leaving a lasting …

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Rhubarb Tart with Crème Anglaise

When I was a kid, rhubarb dishes appeared on our family menu each May, confirming unequivocally that spring had finally arrived. Seeing a basket of bright red rhubarb at the local market enticed me to try this Rhubarb Tart with Crème Anglaise recipe that I’ve saved just for this occasion. Rhubarb is a perennial plant …

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Alfajores,  Argentina’s Most Popular Cookies

On a recent trip to Argentina, I expected to eat large portions of meat and drink wine at every meal. Still, I was surprised by the culinary diversity offered in restaurants, which dispelled the all-meat stereotype of Argentinian cuisine.  Beef and other meats, of course, are on all menus, but so is seafood, an amazing …

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Carrot Oladky – Tender Carrot Pancakes from Ukraine

These Carrot Oladky (morkvyani oladky – морквяні оладки in Ukrainian) are one of many dairy-based dishes eaten during Masnytsia or Syrny Tyzhden (translated as Butter Week or Cheese Week). Masnytsia is Ukrainian carnivale which takes place a week before the start of Lent, which often occurs at the end of February or in the first …

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Pistachio Napoleon Torte – a Twist on a Ukrainian Classic

This Pistachio Napoleon Torte is my twist on the traditional Ukrainian Napoleon. In my childhood, Napoleon Torte was the epitome of a fancy dessert made only for special occasions by my aunt Titka Maria or Mama. Years later, when I began working in Ukraine, I learned this torte was adored by other Ukrainians and prepared …

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